Mahjong Game Rules
After mahjong was invented in China in the mid-1800's – see
the slightly more elaborate history of the game in the Chinese
Classical section on this web site – it evolved differently in
different parts of China, and then yet again into even more forms
when spreading further into other countries in Asia and then the
West during the 1900's. In this way, about two dozen recognized “main” variants of
the game came to exist: in the regions of mainland China, and in
Japan, the USA, Vietnam, Taiwan, Korea, Malaysia and so on. The
result was that unlike in bridge, backgammon or FIDE-style chess,
or more recently in poker, people from different parts of the
world or even from different parts of China could not easily play
against each other but were forced to adapt to the local
rules. Another problem has been that mahjong over the decades
undeniably often has come to be associated with playing for high
stakes, and thus acquired in part an unsavoury reputation as a
gambling game – while still, in many other circles, being enjoyed
as a family entertainment for points and prestige only. Especially
during the Cultural Revolution in the 1960's and 1970's in China,
when gambling was sternly discouraged, mahjong was at times
prohibited and driven underground... which did not stop for
example Chairman Mao himself from enjoying the game in
secret. Despite this mahjong proved to be unstoppable in China, due
to its great popularity. Thus, in 1996 the People's Sports
Publishing House took up the challenge to create a national set of
rules and also a “healthier” form of the game. It would not
involve money, but instead be ranked as a “mind sports” form of
competition. These official rules would therefore prohibit not
only gambling on the outcome, but also drinking, smoking and
swearing while playing. In defining this new set of rules for Mahjong, a specially
selected group of experts from all over China was appointed, and
research was made not only into the regional variants in Beijing,
Shanghai, Ningbo, Tiangjin, Hong Kong and others, but also those
of Japan and Taiwan. The more complex forms of the game were
rejected, and in the end the decision was made to create a
pattern-based, additive form of play and scoring. The rules were
presented in 1998; and in that same year mahjong as defined by
these rules was officially named the country's 255th sport, by the
State Sports Commission of China. This form of the game has since come to be recognized and
adopted as the international version of mahjong, whilst undergoing
a few micro-changes in the early 2000's. Also, this form is known
variously as Chinese Official (CO), World Mahjong Contest Rules
(WMCR), Official International Rules (OIR), or Chinese Mahjong
Contest Rules (CMCR), and is now officially (since October 2005)
sanctioned and governed by the World Mahjong Organization
(WMO). In October 2002 the first World Mahjong Championship was
held, in Tokyo. In 2005 the first European Championship was played
according to the International Rules, in Nijmegen in the
Netherlands. The Second World Championship was then played in
November 2007, in Chengdu in China; and now there are a number of
national and international tournaments annually, all based on
these International Competition Rules. Mahjong is a game of judgment and skill, repaying
concentration, an ability to figure out odds, and evaluating the
possible hands the opponents are holding in order to recognize
which tiles are “dangerous” to discard. The game also offers the
challenge of balancing your play between aiming to go out quickly
but with not very valuable tiles in hand, and shooting for more
high-paying but harder-to-achieve combinations. When taking up International Competition Mahjong, it helps
to first be well experienced in for example the Chinese Classical
form of the game: and while the basic gameplay is the same, you
must thoroughly familiarize yourself with the scoring elements,
and learn how to quickly evaluate a starting hand to see in which
“direction” you should then take it when exchanging tiles, while
keeping open as many options as possible. International
Competition Mahjong is indeed a demanding, but at the same time
highly rewarding form of the game! The game play in International Competition Rules is
basically the same as in the Chinese Classical game; it is to your
advantage if you already know how the play the latter. The general
winning hand structure is the same, “four sets and a pair” – more
on this below – but a few other winning hands are also
recognized. As for the background history of International Competition
Mahjong, see here. For an overview of the scoring elements and
scoring principles, click here. In International Competition Mahjong, also known variously
as Chinese Official (CO), World Mahjong Contest Rules (WMCR),
Official International Rules (OIR), or Chinese Mahjong Contest
Rules (CMCR), and being officially sanctioned and governed by the
World Mahjong Organization (WMO), a set of 144 tiles consisting of
the following is used: There are three suits: Bamboo, Character and Circles. Each suit runs from 1 to 9. Each tile is replicated four times – thus there are for
example four Three of Bamboo tiles, four Seven of Characters
tiles, and so on, making up 36 tiles (4x9) in each suit, and 108
(3x36) suit tiles in total. The numbers 2-8 are often referred to
as Simples, while the 1's and 9's are called Terminals. Note that
the One of Bamboos shows a stylized picture of a bird, which
beginners may at first confuse with the Bonus tiles; see
below! There are two categories of Honour tiles, Winds and Dragons
respectively: These show the four winds, or the four cardinal directions:
East (E), South (S), West (W) and North (N) respectively. These show Red Dragon, Green Dragon and White Dragon
respectively. As with the suit tiles, each Wind Tile and each Dragon tile
is replicated four times, making up 16 (4x4) and 12 (3x4) = 28
Honour tiles in total. There are 8 such tiles, all different, traditionally showing
the four Seasons and four Flowers: Figure 6. Seasons and Flowers The Seasons depict spring (the number 1), summer (2), autumn
(3) and winter (4) respectively. The Flowers are plum blossom (1),
orchid (2), chrysanthemum (3) and bamboo (4) respectively. As the name implies, these Bonus tiles are not used in the
actual game play, forming sets and pairs; instead they make up a
luck element, as they are set aside and replaced when drawn,
increasing that player's score. Note that if you buy a “physical”
Mahjong set, the Bonus tiles may vary widely in design! A “physical” mahjong set as a rule contains not only the
tiles, but also dice, scoring sticks or chips, and sometimes also
other objects which are used in the game. Also, regional mahjong
sets (in for example Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Singapore, USA etc)
will often contain additional and/or different-looking tiles,
which often have other functions not covered here. The object of the game is to collect tiles
to form one of the scoring patterns described later and thereby
achieving a mahjong hand. A mahjong hand normally consists of
four sets of tiles plus one pair of tiles (or as pointed
out above, a hand which conforms to another, winning specification). Any set must consist of either three identical tiles (called a pong), or four identical tiles (called a kong), or three Suit tiles in numerical sequence and of the same
suit (called a chow or chi). A pong or a kong must be made up of identical tiles. Note
also that a chow/chi must consist of exactly three tiles, no
more and no less, and of the same suit. The pair may be any pair, as long as it consists of two
identical tiles. You cannot form any set or pair with your Bonus tiles!
Instead, as soon as you draw a bonus tile, you set it aside and
draw a replacement tile. The bonus tiles you accumulate (if
any), will score extra points for you at the end. Here is one example (among millions possible) of a finished mahjong hand: Again, note that you may also go out with any of a number of
special mahjong hands, which do not conform to the “four sets, one
pair” rule above! See the section on scoring for a list of these
special hands. In mahjong, the four players sit at a table facing each
other, as when playing bridge or whist. The players are identified
by the four cardinal directions: in anti-clockwise order, East,
South, West and North respectively. Note that this does not correspond to the order on a
compass! Also, unlike in bridge or whist, mahjong players do not
play in teams: rather, it is every player for himself. Each deal begins by shuffling and arranging the 144 tiles in
a square 2x18 tiles long on every side, called “the Wall”. Then
each player draws (according to a certain ritual) 13 tiles each;
the exception is the player in the East seat, who draws 14
tiles. (Here, this entire process is of course taken care of by
the software.) The players, starting with East who must first discard one
of his/her tiles, now in counterclockwise order take turns to pick
tiles: either claiming the last one discarded by a previous player
(provided certain conditions are met), or drawing the next
available one from the Wall. After picking a tile, that same
player must immediately discard a tile, after which it is the next
player's turn. While picking and discarding, each player tries to exchange
and arrange his/her tiles so as to form them into a mahjong hand
(four sets and a pair, or one of the special hands). The first
player to accomplish this declares “Mahjong” (or, in modern
tournaments, declares “Hu”), upon which the game immediately
stops. Note that a player declaring mahjong and thereby going out,
does not discard a tile in that same turn! The winning player is then paid by his/her opponents,
according to the score for the hand: the more valuable the hand,
the more points he/she gets. The other players do not exchange
points between themselves, unlike in the Classical form of the
game. Mahjong is also playable with two or three players instead
of four (though in modern tournaments, the International game is
invariably played with four), following the same principles as
above. As soon as you choose a table here, the software will take
you to it and randomly assign you a seat. If you enter a
tournament, the software will assign you both a table and a seat
at it. As soon as a new deal begins, the 144 tiles are shuffled and
then arranged in a square: each side is 18 tiles long, and 2 tiles
high. This arrangement is called “the Wall”. With the help of dice, the spot where you “break the Wall”
and start drawing tiles is randomly chosen. All this is
automatically handled by the software. Starting with East taking the first 4 tiles, each player
eventually draws 13 tiles from the wall; the exception is the
player in the East seat, who draws 14 tiles. Again, here the
entire process is automatically taken care of by the
software. When the tiles are dealt, you will see your own tiles
face up on the screen, while those of the other players are seen
standing on edge and are hidden from you. Note that you during the game will be drawing “normal” tiles
from the Wall in clockwise fashion, but drawing any replacement
tiles from the back end of the Wall. If the last tile has been
drawn from the Wall without any player managing to go out, play
stops and no scoring is made. This is called a “washout” or a
“dead hand” – but is a rare occurrence. Each player now examines the tiles he/she has drawn at the
start. In turn order counterclockwise, starting with East, the
players now declare any Bonus tile or tiles they have, setting
them aside face up, and drawing replacement tiles from the back
end of the Wall. If any new Bonus tiles are drawn when replacing, these are
also set aside and further replacement tiles drawn. After this
procedure is completed, the players should once again have 13
tiles each in hand, with the exception of East who should have 14
tiles. Again, this procedure is handled automatically here by the
software. Also, if a player is dealt a concealed kong, he/she may
declare it immediately – see below. The East player now always takes the first turn, by
discarding any of the 14 tiles in his hand, face up within the
area of the Wall. If none of the other players claims this tile,
South now draws the next tile from the Wall and then discards any
of his tiles in the same manner, followed by West, North, East
again, and so on in counterclockwise order around the table,
drawing and discarding each time in turn. Note that the tiles from the Wall are drawn in clockwise
fashion, while the turn order among the players goes
counterclockwise! The only time that you do not draw a tile from the Wall
during your turn, is when you instead claim another player's
recently discarded tile. If any of the other players discards a tile which you need
to complete a pong (three identical tiles), you immediately say
“Pong” and may then pick up this tile. Any player/-s sitting
between you and he/she who discarded the tile, are skipped over in
turn order. You must then at once, during that same turn, expose and put
on the table (face up) the set you claimed for: this is called
melding. After this you as usual discard a tile, and the turn then
passes to the next player counterclockwise. Example: East has two White Dragons in hand, when South
discards another White Dragon. East immediately says “Pong”, picks
up the tile, and exposes and places his three White Dragons as a
set beside him on the table. Then East discards one of the tiles
in his hand, and it is South's turn again. Note that West and
North were skipped over in the turn sequence! If no player claims a newly discarded tile, it is considered
“dead”, remains face up on the table, and may not be claimed at a
later point in the game. It is customary to put the claimed tile sideways in the
exposed set, so as to show which of the other players discarded
it. Figure 12. Pong with tile sideways to indicate the claimed tile was discarded by the player to the right Claiming a tile for a kong (four identical tiles) is
performed exactly as when claiming a tile for a pong – see
above. The only difference is that the player claiming and
exposing the kong (melding it) must then immediately draw a
replacement tile from the back end of the Wall, BEFORE discarding
one of the tiles in hand. (This replacement is done for
mathematical reasons: if you do not draw a replacement tile after
putting down a kong, it is impossible to form four sets and a pair
with the tiles you have left in hand!) Example: North has three tiles of the Four of Bamboos in
hand, when West discards another Four of Bamboos. North
immediately says “Kong”, picks up the discarded tile, exposes and
puts down her set of four identical tiles, draws a replacement
tile from the back end of the Wall, and finally discards one of
her tiles, after which it is East's turn. Note that in this
example, none of the other players were skipped over in the turn
sequence. As when claiming a tile for a pong, it is customary in a
live game to put the claimed tile sideways in the exposed set, so
as to show which of the other players discarded it. Claiming a tile for a chow (also called chi) may ONLY be
done by the next player in turn. South may only claim such a tile
if it is discarded by East; West may only claim such a tile if it
is discarded by South; and so on around the table. Apart from
this, the procedure is the same as when claiming a tile for a pong
and melding with it. Example: South discards the Eight of Characters. West, who
is next in turn, happens to have both the Six and the Seven of
Characters and therefore immediately says “Chi” and picks up the
discarded tile. He exposes his set, puts it on the table beside
him, and discards one of his tiles in hand. Now it is North's
turn. As when claiming a tile for a pong, it is customary in a
live game to put the claimed tile in a chow sideways in the
exposed set, so as to show which of the other players discarded
it. If completing a chow would also complete your mahjong hand,
you may claim this tile no matter which of the other players
discards it – just say “Mahjong” or “Hu” and pick up the tile to
your hand! This may only be done on one condition: that the player
claiming the tile thereby immediately can finish his/her mahjong
hand and go out. Under no other circumstances may a player claim a
discard to complete the pair (any pair) needed in a mahjong
hand. Note: you are NEVER forced to claim a suitable tile!
Instead, you may if you wish just draw the next tile from the
Wall, even if you technically could have claimed the previous
discard. What happens if two players both claim the same tile? Then
the claim priority rules come into effect: Claiming a tile for a pong or a kong has priority
over claiming for a chow/chi. Claiming a tile for mahjong has priority over any
other claim. If two or three players both claim the same tile for
mahjong, the player sitting closest in (counterclockwise)
turn order after the discarder has priority. When playing at this site, any claiming options on your turn
are clearly indicated on the screen by the software – just click
to claim, within the set time limit. If you do not claim a possible tile before the next player
in turn draws a tile from the Wall, you have forfeited your
opportunity and may not claim the discarded tile later in the
game; this is also the custom in a live game! If drawing a tile from the Wall completes a pong in your
hand, or a chow, or if you are dealt such a set at the start of
the game, it is considered concealed and you do not need to
declare this set before you go out by achieving your mahjong hand:
when this occurs, such sets are of course shown but still
considered concealed, not exposed. Keeping your opponents from
knowing whatever combinations of tiles you have in hand during
play is a tactical advantage! Any tiles in concealed sets in hand may of course be
rearranged in new combinations, whenever you wish. However,
already exposed sets may never be touched. If you already have a concealed pong (three identical tiles)
in hand, and draw the fourth identical tile from the Wall, you
have a concealed kong. You declare this set by putting it on the
table in that same turn. (It is still considered concealed.) You
must then immediately draw a replacement tile from the back end of
the Wall, after which you as usual discard a tile. It is then the
next player's turn. If you are dealt a concealed kong at the start of the game,
you also declare it in the same way, and draw a replacement
tile. Note that you are not required to declare a concealed kong!
You may if you wish keep your concealed pong, and use the fourth
identical tile in a chow instead. If you have previously claimed a tile to complete a pong,
having the exposed pong beside you on the table, and you later
yourself draw the fourth identical tile from the Wall, you may add
this tile to your exposed pong: this turns it into an exposed kong
instead. Note that you may not claim this fourth tile to an already
exposed pong, if it is discarded by another player! When drawing and adding the fourth identical tile, you must
as with any declared kong draw a replacement tile from the back
end of the Wall before discarding. If you draw a Bonus tile during the game, you simply set it
aside with your exposed sets (if any), immediately draw a
replacement tile from the back end of the Wall, and then discard a
tile as usual. Note however that you actually are permitted to discard a
Bonus tile, instead of adding it to your exposed sets! No other
player may claim it. This is a “desperate” measure when playing
defensive tactics in the endgame, and you are trying to prevent
another player from going out. Whenever you draw the last tile you need to complete your
mahjong hand consisting of four sets and a pair (or completing
another recognized winning hand), you say “Hu” or “Mahjong”. Show
the tiles you have in hand, taking care to mark concealed
sets. You may also claim the last tile you need to complete your
mahjong hand, regardless of whether for a pong, a chow/chi, or the
pair, or any other recognized winning hand, and regardless of
which of the other players discards it; again, just call out “Hu”
or “Mahjong”, and take the discarded tile. As soon as a player calls out “Hu”, play immediately stops
and that player shows his or her entire hand. Note that when going out with a mahjong hand, you draw or
claim a tile – but this is the only time you do not discard a tile
during your move! Now the scoring begins – see the
scoring section for information on this. Again, note that you may also go out with any of a few
special mahjong hands, which do not conform to the “four sets, one
pair” rule above! See the
scoring section. Play continues until a player goes out, or until the last
tile has been drawn from the Wall. If no player goes out on either
this tile or the discard from the player who drew the last
available tile, it is known as a “washout” or a “dead hand”:
no-one wins, and no points are scored. After each hand, even a washout, and regardless of who won,
the seating positions rotate one step counterclockwise: the East
player now becomes North, the South player becomes East, and so
on. The next hand now begins, in the same manner as above. In a tournament, the game will in each round stop after a
certain time limit. The current hand is then not played to a
finish, and the players will score the points they have so far
accumulated before the current hand started. Each seat (each player, East, South, West or North) has a
corresponding wind, called the Seat Wind. If you achieve a pong or
a kong in “your own” Wind, it means extra points; see the scoring
section. When the seating positions rotate, so does your Seat
Wind. Each round (= consisting of four hands when each player will
be in each of the seating positions in turn) also corresponds to a
Prevailing Wind: during the first round (the first four hands),
the Prevailing Wind will be East; then, during the following four
hands, it will be South; then West, and finally North, after which
sixteen hands (= four rounds) have been played and the game is
over, if not before due to time reasons. Note that when playing in a live game, there are also a
number of other rules governing the players' physical behaviour,
such as the formal procedure to add up the points using previously
discarded tiles, penalties for having the wrong number of tiles in
hand or trying to go out with a non-correct hand, and so on. The
software on this site will of course make it impossible to commit
these mistakes, but before playing in a live game it is advised
that you familiarize yourself with the entire set of these rules,
as set down by the World Mahjong Organization. As soon as a player has achieved a valid mahjong hand and
goes out, play immediately stops and he or she exposes the tiles
still in hand (while taking care to note which sets were concealed
just before going out). In a live tournament, that player would
then count out loud, one by one, the scoring elements and
combinations he/she claims for the hand, summing up the points
while being validated by the other players. If that player forgets
any scoring element or combination, it is his/her fault – the
other players are not obliged to point out this error (indeed,
must keep silent in a live tournament); and furthermore, once
validated by the others and scored the points stand, even if any
mistake is noticed later. Naturally, when playing at this site all the scoring is done
automatically by the software and shown on the screen – and no
elements or combinations are overlooked! The International game is pattern-based, subject to a number
of stringent rules, and differs severly in scoring from the
Chinese Classical game. First, the minimum required to go out is 8 points (not
counting any Bonus tiles); any hand failing to reach this minimum
(even if it fulfills the formal requirement of four sets and a
pair) you are not permitted to go out on. Second, once all the scoring elements and combinations
(including the Bonus tiles) have been added up, this forms the
“basic score”. To this 8 points are always added, for the full
score of the winning hand. Third, only the winner gets paid by the other three players
– these three do not then exchange points between themselves,
unlike in the Chinese Classical game. Fourth, if the win is by self-draw
(the winning player draws the final tile needed from the Wall), the three
other players all pay the winning score in full. If instead the win is by
discard
(the final tile needed is discarded by another player and
immediately claimed by the winner), only the discarder pays the
winning score in full (as a penalty for his/her “carelessness”),
while the other two players only pay the winner the minimum 8
points each. Fifth, in International Competition Mahjong points may be
scored by combinations of sets – such as for example having two
chows, 1-2-3 and 7-8-9 in the same suit, which each by itself
would not give the player any points but do so when together in
the same hand (“Two Terminal Chows”, see below). It is critically
important to know of all these scoring elements and combinations
of elements which are possible, and how to utilize them to your
advantage when trying to achieve a winning hand. Sixth, there are a few principles governing how a hand is
scored, prohibiting for example a repetition of the same
combinations. When playing here the software will automatically
adhere to these principles, but in a live game you must know them
by heart – see near the end of this scoring section. Seventh, the only five permissible hands not conforming to
the “four sets and one pair” rule are: Seven Shifted Pairs (#06, see below) Thirteen Orphans (#07) Seven Pairs (#19) Greater Honours and Knitted Tiles (#20) Lesser Honours and Knitted Tiles (#34) Knitted Straight (#35) There are eighty-one scoring elements and combinations
(called fan in Chinese) in total, worth from 1 point up to 88
points. Here they are, grouped and numbered in the official order
set out by the World Mahjong Organization: (01) Big Four Winds: A hand containing pongs or kongs of all
four Wind tiles, E-S-W-N. It may not be combined with big Three Winds, Little Four
Winds, All Pongs, Seat Wind, Prevalent Wind, or pong of Terminals
or Honours (all implied). (02) Big Three Dragons: A hand containing pongs or kongs of
all three Dragon tiles, Red-Green-White. It may not be combined with pong of Dragons, or Two Dragons
(both implied). (03) All Green: A hand in which all the chows, pongs/kongs
and the pair are made up entirely of combinations of “green”
tiles: defined as 2, 3, 4, 6 and 8 of Bamboos, and Green
Dragon. It may be combined with either Half Flush or Full
Flush. When combined with Seven Pairs, Tile Hog may not be
added. (04) Nine Gates: Holding (concealed) the
1-1-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-9-9 tiles in any of the three suits,
creating the nine-sided wait of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 in
that same suit. It may be combined with Fully Concealed if the winning tile
is Self-Drawn. It may not be combined with Full Flush (implied),
Concealed, Edge Wait, Closed Wait, Single Wait, or Pong of
Terminals or Honours. (05) Four Kongs: Any hand that includes four kongs (plus a
pair). These may be concealed or melded. (06) Seven Shifted Pairs: A hand containing seven pairs of
the same suit, each shifted one up from the previous one. It may be combined with Fully Concealed if the winning tile
is Self-Drawn. It may not be combined with Full Flush, Concealed
Hand, or Single Wait (all implied). (07) Thirteen Orphans: A hand containing one each of all the
Dragons, all the Winds, a 1 and 9 of each suit, and the fourteenth
tile forming a pair with any of the previous ones. It may be combined with Fully Concealed if the winning tile
is Self-Drawn. It may not be combined with Concealed Hand, All
Types, or Single Wait (all implied). (08) All Terminals: A hand made up entirely of 1 and 9 of
the suit tiles, pongs or kongs and including the pair, without any
Honour tiles. It may not be combined with No Honours (implied), All Pongs
(implied), or Outside Hand (implied). It may be combined with
Double Pong or Triple Pong. It may be combined with Seven Pairs,
but then the Tile Hog may not be added. (09) Little Four Winds: A hand containing three pongs or
kongs of Wind tiles, and a pair of the fourth Wind. It may not be combined with Big Three Winds (implied) or
Pong of Terminals or Honours (implied). It may be combined with
Seat Wind or Prevalent Wind. (10) Little Three Dragons: A hand containing two pongs or
kongs of Dragons, and a pair of the Third Dragon. It may not be combined with Two Dragons, or Pong of Dragons
(both implied). (11) All Honours: All pungs, kongs and the pair consist of
Honour tiles. The Dragons and Winds may be exposed or concealed. It may
not be combined with All Pongs (implied), Outside Hand, or Pong of
Terminals or Honours (implied). Points for Seat Wind, Prevalent
Wind and/or Pong of Dragons may be added. (12) Four Concealed Pongs: A hand containing four concealed
pongs or kongs (achieved without melding). It may not be combined with Concealed Hand (implied) or All
Pongs (implied). It may be combined with Fully Concealed if the
winning tile is Self-Drawn. (13) Pure Terminal Chows: A hand containing four Terminal
Chows, two each of the lower and the upper, all of the same suit,
and a pair of fives of the same suit. It may not be combined with Full Flush (implied), All Chows
(implied), Seven Pairs, Pure Double Chow (implied), Mixed Double
Chow (implied), or Two Terminal Chows (implied). (14) Quadruple Chow: A hand containing four identical chows
of the same suit. It may not be combined with Pure Double Chow (implied), Pure
Triple Chow (implied), Tile Hog, or Pure Shifted Pongs. (15) Four Pure Shifted Pongs: A hand containing four pongs
or kongs of the same suit, each shifted one of from the previous
one. It may not be combined with Pure Double Chow, Pure Triple
Chow, Tile Hog, or Pure Shifted Pongs Implied). (16) Four Pure Shifted Chows: A hand containing four chows
of the same suit, each shifted up either 1 or 2 steps from the
previous one (but not a combination of both). >It may not be combined with Short Straight. (17) Three Kongs: A hand containing three kongs (exposed or
concealed). It may be combined with points for concealment, see
below. If all three kongs are concealed, it may be combined with
Three Concealed Pongs. (18) All Terminals and Honours: A hand containing pongs,
kongs and/or pair(s), all of 1 and/or 9 of the suit tiles and
Honour tiles (Winds and/or Dragons). It may not be combined with Pong of Terminals or Honours
(implied), Outside Hand, or All Pongs (implied). (19) Seven Pairs: A hand consisting of seven pairs, any
pairs. The pairs need not all be different – one may be two 7 of
Characters, and another pair the remaining two 7 of Characters,
for example. It may not be combined with Single Wait (implied) or
Concealed Hand (implied). It may be combined with Fully Concealed
if the winning tile is Self-Drawn, and may also be combined with
All Types and Tile Hog. (20) Greater Honours and Knitted Tiles: A hand containing
one each of the four Winds and the three Dragons, plus any seven
tiles in a knitted straight (1-4-7 of one suit, 2-5-8 of another
suit and 3-6-9 of the third suit), but where the Wind and Dragon
tiles are used as “jokers” to take the place of missing suit tiles
in the sequences. Differs from Lesser Honours and Knitted Tiles
(#34, see below) in that it must contain one each of all seven
Honour tiles. This hand does not contain a pair! It may not be combined with Concealed Hand or All Types
(both implied). It may be combined with Fully Concealed if the
winning tile is Self-Drawn. (21) All Even Pongs: A hand containing pongs or kongs of 2,
4, 6 or 8 of the suit tiles, plus a pair of the same. It may not be combined with All Pongs (implied) or All
Simples (implied). (22) Full Flush: A hand containing tiles from one suit
only. It may not be combined with No Honours (implied). (23) Pure Triple Chow: A hand containing three identical
chows of the same suit. It may not be combined with Pure Shifted Pongs, or Pure
Double Chow (implied). (24) Pure Shifted Pongs:A hand containing three pongs or
kongs of the same suit, each shifted one up from the previous
one. It may not be combined with Pure Triple Chow. (25) Upper Tiles: A hand containing 7, 8 and/or 9 tiles
only. It may not be combined with No Honours (implied). (26) Middle Tiles: A hand containing 4, 5 and/or 6 tiles
only. Again, it may not be combined with No Honours
(implied). (27) Lower Tiles: A hand containing 1, 2 and/or 3 tiles
only. Again, it may not be combined with No Honours
(implied). (28) Pure Straight: A hand containing the sequence
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9 of the same suit, forming three consecutive
chows. (29) Three-Suited Terminal Chows: A hand containing 1-2-3
and 7-8-9 of one suit (Two Terminal Chows), 1-2-3 and 7-8-9 of
another suit, and a pair of fives in the remaining suit. It may not be combined with All Chows (implied), Two
Terminal Chows (implied), or Mixed Double Chow (implied). (30) Pure Shifted Chows: A hand containing three chows of
the same suit, each shifted up either 1 or 2 steps from the
previous one (but not a combination of both). (31) All Fives: A hand in which every set (chow, pong, kong,
pair) includes at least one 5 tile. It may not be combined with All Simples (implied). (32) Triple Pong: A hand containing three matching pongs or
kongs of the same number, in all three suits. (33) Three Concealed Pongs: A hand containing three
concealed pongs or kongs (achieved without melding). (34) Lesser Honours and Knitted Tiles: A hand containing a
knitted straight (1-4-7 of one suit, 2-5-8 of another suit and
3-6-9 of the third suit), and with single Honour tiles (Winds and
Dragons) making up the rest of the hand as well as acting as
“jokers” taking the place of any missing suit tiles in the
sequences. This hand differs from Greater Honours and Knitted
Tiles (#20) in that it does not contain one each of all seven
Honour tiles. Also, this hand does not contain a pair! It may not be combined with Concealed Hand or All Types
(both implied). It may be combined with Fully Concealed if the
winning tile is Self-Drawn. It may also be combined with Knitted
Straight, if no Honour tiles at all are used in the
sequences. (35) Knitted Straight: A hand containing three special
sequences, 1-4-7 of one suit, 2-5-8 of another suit and 3-6-9 of
the third suit. It may not be combined with Edge Wait or Closed Wait. It may
be combined with All Chows, or with Lesser Honours and Knitted
Tiles. (36) Upper Four: A hand containing 6, 7, 8 and/or 9 tiles
only. It may not be combined with No Honours (implied). (37) Lower Four: A hand containing 1, 2, 3 and/or 4 tiles
only. It may not be combined with No Honours (implied). (38) Big Three Winds: A hand containing three pongs or kongs
in three different winds. (39) Mixed Straight: A hand containing three different
chows, 1-2-3 of one suit, 4-5-6 of another suit, and 7-8-9 of the
third suit. (40) Reversible Tiles: A hand made up entirely of those
tiles which are vertically symmetrical, meaning the tile looks the
same when turned upside down. These tiles are defined as the 1, 2,
3, 4, 5, 8 and 9 of Dots, the 2, 4, 5, 6, 8 and 9 of Bamboos, and
the White Dragon. It may not be combined with One Voided Suit
(implied). (41) Mixed Triple Chow: A hand containing three chows of the
same numerical sequence, but in three different suits. (42) Mixed Shifted Pongs: A hand containing three pongs or
kongs, in all three different suits, each shifted one step up from
the previous one. (43) Chicken Hand: A hand that would otherwise score 0
points (not counting the Bonus tiles). The different elements in
it must not qualify for any scoring at all! (44) Last Tile Draw: Going out (making the mahjong) by
drawing the very last tile from the Wall. It does not combine with Self-Drawn (implied). (45) Last Tile Claim: Going out (making the mahjong) by
claiming the very last discarded tile in the game. (46) Out With Replacement Tile: Going out (making the
mahjong) with the replacement tile drawn after achieving a kong
(but not when replacing a Bonus tile). It may not combine with Self-Drawn (implied). If a Bonus
tile is drawn as a replacement after achieving a kong, and the new
replacement tile lets you go out, the point for Self-Drawn may be
added but Out With Replacement Tile does not apply. (47) Robbing the Kong: Winning by claiming (for the mahjong)
a tile another player tries to add to a melded pong to create an
exposed kong. This is treated, points-wise, as winning by discard from
another player. It may not be combined with either Last Tile Draw
or Last Tile Claim. (48) Two Concealed Kongs: A hand containing two concealed
kongs. Note: This scoring element was originally valued at 6
points, but was upgraded to 8 points in the year 2006 by the
WMO. (49) All Pongs: A hand containing four pongs or kongs, and a
pair. (50) Half Flush: A hand that contains suits from one suit
only, in combination with Honour tiles (Winds and/or
Dragons). (51) Mixed Shifted Chows: A hand containing three chows, one
in each suit, each shifted one step up from the previous
one. Note: This is an important scoring element, very frequently
used by master players. (52) All Types: A hand in which all three suits, and one of
the Winds and one of the Dragons, are present in making up the
four sets and the pair. It may also be combined with Seven Pairs. (53) Melded Hand: A hand in which all four sets, AND the
pair, must be completed by claiming tiles discarded by the other
players. All sets must be exposed, and the player goes out by
completing the pair off a discard from another player. It may not be combined with Single Wait (implied). (54) Two Dragon Pongs: A hand containing two pongs or kongs
of Dragon tiles. (55) Outside Hand: A hand containing Terminals and Honours
in all four sets, as well as the pair. (56) Fully Concealed Hand: A hand which is completed without
any melds (any claiming of discards), and wins by
Self-Draw. It may not be combined with Self-Draw (implied) or Concealed
Hand (implied). (57) Two Melded Kongs: A hand containing two exposed
kongs. Note that one melded kong and one concealed kong are 6
points. (58) Last Tile: Winning with a tile that is the last of its
kind. This fact must be clear to all players, the previous three
having been discarded or exposed in sets. (59) Dragon Pong: One pong or kong of Dragons, concealed or
exposed. (60) Prevalent Wind: A pong or kong of the Wind
corresponding to the current Prevalent Wind. (61) Seat Wind: A pong or kong of the Wind corresponding to
your own current Seat Wind (seating position, East, South, West or
North). (62) Concealed Hand: A hand without any exposed sets
(melds), and which wins by claiming a discard. (63) All Chows: A hand consisting of four chows (plus a
pair), the pair not being made up of Honour tiles. It may not be combined with No Honours (implied). (64) Tile Hog: Using four identical tiles from one of the
suits, without using them as a kong – using them instead as two
pairs, or in one pong and one chow. (65) Double Pong: Two pongs or kongs (or one pong and one
kong) of the same number but in two different suits. (66) Two Concealed Pongs: Two pongs achieved without
melding. (67) Concealed kong: Four identical tiles, all self-drawn,
declared as a kong. (68) All Simples: A hand which does not contain any
Terminals (1 or 9), nor any Honours. (69) Pure Double Chow: Two identical chows, of the same
suit. (70) Mixed Double Chow: Two chows with the same numbers, but
in different suits. (71) Short Straight: Two chows in the same suit that run
consecutively, for example 3-4-5 and 6-7-8 of Dots. (72) Two Terminal Chows: Two chows, of 1-2-3 and 7-8-9
respectively, in the same suit. (73) Pong of Terminals or Honours: A pong or kong of 1 or 9
in one of the suits, or of one of the Winds. Note that a pong of Dragons scores 2 points instead. A pong
in one of the Winds may be combined with Seat Wind or Prevalent
Wind. (74) Melded Kong: A kong claimed from another player's
discard, or promoted from a previously melded pong by self-drawing
the fourth tile. (75) One Voided Suit: A hand entirely lacking tiles from one
of the suits. Winds and/or Dragon tiles may be present in the
hand. (76) No Honours: A hand formed entirely of suit tiles,
without any Winds or Dragons. (77) Edge Wait: Winning by drawing or claiming a 3 to form a
1-2-3 chow, or a 7 to form a 7-8-9 chow. It is not valid if waiting for more than one tile, or if the
Edge Wait is combined with any other waits. (78) Closed Wait: Winning by drawing or claiming a tile
whose number is on the “inside” to form a chow, for example a 6 to
form a 5-6-7 chow. It is not valid if waiting for more than one tile, or if the
Closed Wait is combined with any other waits. (79) Single Wait: Waiting solely for a tile to form a
pair. It is not valid if waiting for more than one tile, for
example when holding 1-2-3-4 of a suit and waiting for either the
1 or the 4. (80) Self-Drawn: Going out (making the mahjong) with a tile
drawn from the Wall. (81) Bonus Tiles: Each Season tile or Flower tile will award
you 1 point when going out (making the mahjong). However, Bonus
tiles do not count toward the 8-point minimum score required to go
out – the hand must be worth at least 8 points on it own merits,
before any points for Bonus tiles are added. If you draw a replacement for a Bonus tile, and can go out
with this replacement tile, it counts as Self-Drawn for 1 extra
point. In calculating the score for a hand, the following
principles must be stringently observed: The prohibition against implied inclusion: When a
higher-scoring pattern cannot be achieved without also making a
related lower-scoring pattern, the lower-scoring pattern is said
to be “implied” and may not also be scored. The prohibition against identical patterns: Once a set has
been used to achieve a particular two- or three-set pattern, you
may then not use the same set to form an identical pattern with
another set. The prohibition against separation: Once one or more sets
have been formed into a particular scoring combination, you may
not “separate” those tiles and re-organize them into other sets to
form a different scoring combination. The prohibition against repetitive set usage: Once two or
three sets have been used to form a scoring combination, any other
remaining sets in hand may only be combined once with an
already-scored set, in creating additional two- or three-set
scoring combinations. The freedom of choice principle: If a set can be used to
form a high-scoring pattern or a low-scoring pattern, the player
is free to select the high-scoring pattern. After each game in a tournament, whether completed by
playing all sixteen hands or interrupted by time running out, a
total of 7 table points are awarded. When playing in a
championship, the player scoring the highest total number of table
points after a pre-determined number of games is the winner. In
case of a tie in table points, the total number of “regular”
points accumulated during all the games is the tie-breaker. After each game, the high scorer receives 4 table points;
the second highest scorer receives 2 table points; the third
highest receives 1 table point; and the fourth player receives 0
table points. If two players' scores are equal, they split table points
between them. In case of a tie for highest score, both players
receive 3 table points each, and the third and fourth player 1 and
0 table points respectively. In case of a tie for second-highest
score, the first player receives 4 points, the tied players 1,5
points each, and the fourth player 0 points. In case of a tie for
third-highest score, the first player receives 4,5 points, the
second 2,5 points, and the tied players 0 points each – and so on
in logical fashion, for the remaining possible cases.
Introduction
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Riichi
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Classic
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International


